Friday, February 12, 2016

A Loud Crack in Guatemala City



 

A Loud Crack in Guatemala City

At 10:30 am we stepped out of the Royal Palace lobby onto the “Sexta” avenue and strolled by the two churches to our left, the little one, Rectoría, and the large San Francisco en the corner of 11th street staffed by the Franciscan Friars -if you call them padres, “priests,” they will tell you politely, and humbly, that they are frailes. We paused for a while and took photos of the imposing, garrison-style building on the next corner and proceeded past a couple of blocks of nondescript clothing stores with more or less the same jeans, shoes and blouses.
Ahead of us loomed the Calvario Church, Nuestra Senora de los Remedios, Our Lady of Mercy, which was surrounded by walls of ugly stalls which isolated and spoiled the church’s image. There, Eduardo had been baptized forty years ago. We paid our respects inside the rather gaunt sanctuary decorated in white and black. Huge statues on Holy Week floats stood in the aisles waiting. Above the altar sat a beautiful wood carving of the crucified Jesus.
Slightly ahead lay the Parque de la Concordia, a block-sized square, raised above the street level, crisscrossed by footpaths and stone benches for the weary traveler and star-crossed lovers of all ages, from school teens, through office-workers to mature couples, snuggling together on this unusually cold day.
As we entered the square suddenly a loud crack rang out. Aura wondered, “sounds like a gun shot.” Hardly a car back-firing. Too early for fireworks. People did not move. We kept exploring and enjoying the lovely square not knowing what to expect. We had been warned a hundred times about the danger in Guatemala. But nobody looked concerned or disturbed.
From behind us the crack rang out again. A pack of friendly goats ran along beside us. And there appeared the culprit. The goatherd with a long whip which he cracked loudly in the cold air. The crack moved his pack along and announced to the public that there was goat milk for sale. Aura encouraged me to try it. We produced 5 Quetzals. The very non-threatening goatherd pulled out a plastic cup from under his jacket and proceeded to milk one of the nanny-goats. He offered me the frothy cup. It was warm and rich. He smiled. “Muy rica, verdad?” “Yes, first time. Absolutely delicious!”